Michigan winters are hard on houses. Freeze-thaw cycles expand and contract everything — caulk, cracks, flashing joints, drainage paths. By the time the snow clears, there's almost always something that shifted, separated, or moved water somewhere it shouldn't go.
The good news is that almost all of it is cheap to catch early. The bad news is that the window for "cheap to catch early" is short — most of the serious problems from winter damage show up in spring, and by summer they're compounded. This checklist covers the things worth looking at every year, in the order that matters.
Outside first
Exterior walk-around
- Roof condition Look for missing, cracked, or lifting shingles. Check flashing around chimneys, skylights, and valleys. Binoculars work fine — you don't need to get on the roof.
- Gutters and downspouts Clear any debris and check that gutters are attached firmly and pitched toward the downspout. Downspouts should discharge at least 4–6 feet away from the foundation.
- Grading away from the house The ground around your foundation should slope away — not toward it. Settlement over winter often reverses this. Pooling water against the foundation is a major cause of basement leaks.
- Foundation cracks Hairline cracks are often cosmetic. Horizontal cracks, stair-step cracks in block walls, or cracks wider than 1/4 inch need professional evaluation.
- Caulk and seals around windows and doors Look for gaps, cracking, or separation. Air and water infiltration through failed caulk is one of the highest-return repairs you can make — materials are cheap.
- Wood trim, fascia, and soffits Poke any painted wood with a screwdriver. Soft spots mean rot. Catching rot early means a board replacement. Missing it means structural framing repair.
- Driveway and walkway cracks Freeze-thaw cycles expand cracks significantly. Seal cracks while they're small — once water gets below the surface, the damage accelerates.
Inside and mechanical
Interior and systems
- HVAC filter replacement and AC test The most skipped step. Replace the filter, then turn on the AC before it's hot — you want to know it works before you need it in July. An AC that's sat all winter may need refrigerant or have a failed capacitor.
- Attic check Look for signs of water intrusion — stains, wet insulation, mold. Also check that soffit and ridge vents are clear. Poor attic ventilation is the leading cause of ice dams the following winter.
- Basement or crawl space moisture Spring is when basement leaks reveal themselves. Look for water stains, efflorescence (white mineral deposits on walls), or a musty smell. Address sources before summer humidity arrives.
- Smoke and CO detector batteries Spring and fall are the standard replacement schedule. If a detector is more than 10 years old, replace the unit.
- Exterior faucet and irrigation check Turn on outdoor spigots and check for leaks — a pipe may have cracked over winter. If you have an irrigation system, run it before committing to the season and check for broken heads.
Things worth calling a pro for if you find them
Most of the items above are visible and fixable by a capable homeowner. But these warrant a contractor call:
- Horizontal foundation cracks or cracks with displacement (one side higher than the other)
- Soft decking or sagging anywhere on the roof plane
- Mold in the attic affecting more than a small area
- Basement water intrusion that isn't clearly from an obvious source like a window well
- HVAC that doesn't cool after the filter is replaced and the unit is reset
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